ELECTRICAL

Before installing one of the following interior or exterior skins depending on the order you are building everything it is a smart idea to run all your electrical wires. Also please leave enough electrical wiring to wire up the device. It is easier to cut it down then to add more on. Along with this take measurements of all electrical wires from a stationary place. I did all of mine from the passenger front floor corner. I took measurements following the roof line and also out from the wall. This will help you locate everything later. It is also a good idea to label the ends of all the wires. unless you plan of running a different color for every appliance/application. I used electrical wire number stickers on mine and made a spread sheet with all the numbers color of wire and what it was for to assist me as I hooked everything up.

So the first step is to plan all your wiring routes. I had to go through my firewall and galley floor with some large gauge wire and quite of few wires as the main electrical box was going to be in the cabin. To do this I used tank bulk heads. These where not going to be water tight by any means but they would allow me to pass all the required wires I need and I got them with my water tank so they where free.

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After installing all the insulation on the inside of the trailer and before installing the interior panel I decided the routes for all of my electrical runs. I decided to route everything through the ceiling. This was done due to the ceiling be thicker then the walls and making paths in them would weaken it less. To create these routes I just took a flexible straight edge and fastened i to the ceiling then took my router and cut the paths for everything. These paths are for the forward reading light, DVD Player, and Ceiling Fan. All other electronics are in the galley or by the electrical cuby.

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I then routed all my wires and making sure to label, document, record location of the ends. Using painters tape I held the wires up in place until I could staple them into place with plastic wire staples.

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After the wire are routed I installed all the interior panels.

Then it was time to find all the loose wire ends. Using my handy spread sheet I knew exactly where to start drilling holes as to not damage wire but also to be able to retrieve the wires and cover the hole with said appliance.

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The next step for the interior electrical appliances was to start attaching everything. Red to Red, Black to Blue, Yellow to green. You know color stuff. I had to weight to wire up the fan until the exterior roof was done.

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I then went and wired up lights inside all the interior cabinets. They are attached to a master switch that can turn off power to them all. But each individual cabinet also has a switch that turns on the light when the door is opened for that specific cabinet.

Here is just some of the LED cabinet lights along with some of the switches I soldered up for controlling everything.

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Showing the led strips and the micro door switches to activate them.

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After some organizing of the wires using these little sticky pads that have cross holes on them and are easy to zip tie to it started to all look very nice.

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Next was time to start wiring up everything. It is a pretty tight area but everything fitted like it should of. On the pannel itself. there is room for 10 switches. 7 are currently used. 2x 12volt outlets. 120 volt plug in for the inverter. Also a inside/outside temp gauge and a battery gauge. On the left hand side of the cuby there is a 12x fuse block with ground. This was a long hard day sitting there and soldering all connections.

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Since the interior was all wired up. I moved onto the galley. Below you will see the insides of the galley master box. It uses the same fuse panel as the inside.

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I wired up the galley cupboards just line the inside each one got it own led strip along with a micro switch. Then organized the wires again.

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Here is the electrical panel all buttoned up. Just need to add the metal trip. The wire sticking up the top will be for the Galley Hatch light.

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To hold the batteries and all the major electrical components. I installed a tongue box. I built a wooden platform inside of this box. I then used four U bolts to bolt through the bottom wood peace along with the box to the frame.

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I then built two battery cradles out of aluminum. And utilizing two ratchet straps secured the two batteries.

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Mounted two T 0 gauge connectors for power and ground along with a duel battery controller. To ensure the tow vehicle battery is charged first. You can also see the fuses for each battery  just in case of a short.

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Using water tight bulk heads I ran the wires from the outside into the box. Ground, Vehicle Power, Teardrop power.

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Trying to connect all the dots and keeping it organized.

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Installed the Solar Panel Controller and Battery Tender.

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I also fastened the Breakaway switch and started to figure out how I was going to wire it up to the power and brakes.

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I ran a separate 0 gauge wire to the rear of the trailer for a winch or jumping a vehicle behind me on a trail.

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